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  There is something reassuringly robust about The Punch Bowl Inn.
  Not just in the old-fashioned bar, where the Wainwright
  Gold is well kept and a huge leather sofa sits before a blazing
  wood burner; or in the dining room, solid and comfortable, with its old beams, well-trodden wooden floors and tables
  unadorned with cloths; it's in the menu, too, mainly British with a Gallic burr, that makes full use of the magnificent local Lake District larder.
  
  
  
  
  
  Stornoway black pudding with crispy egg and bubble
  and squeak: ‘pure Cumbrian comfort by way of Lewis', is Tom's verdict
  
  We're here with Peter Gott, that great Cumbrian hero, and the
  man behind Sillfield Farm, who has invited me up to
  cook at the Westmorland County Show; also chef Phil Vickery, who certainty knows his alliums; and the force of nature that is Lorraine Stanton, something of a legend around
  these parts. But first dinner, and a sublime twice-baked Mrs Kirkham's cheese soufflé, the texture as
  light as a sigh, the flavour profoundly, lasciviously rich.
  
  Mrs Kirkham's, now made by her son Graham, is
  one of the world's great cheeses, and this is a soufflé of quiet majesty.
  A mushroom soup is equally splendid, managing to be
  both light and gutsy, while Stornoway black pudding with
  bubble and squeak and a deep-fried egg is pure Cumbrian comfort by way of Lewis.
  
  
  There's a fundamental generosity here, matched by assured technical precision. Duck à l'orange sees a plump breast cooked rare, the skin crisp, the
  sauce just the right side of bitter. It comes with a fat potato fondant and cabbage spiked with shards of smoked
  bacon. I eat rump of lamb, four vast just-pink slices, drenched in the stickiest, most gloriously intense
  of gravies; by its side, a tiny shepherd's pie, one bite of
  pure ovine brilliance.
  
  Puddings are every bit as fine: a lemon tart, beautifully sharp, with damson sorbet (this part of the Lake District is famed for its damsons); along
  with a banana soufflé, this time the classic
  version but ethereal, served with vanilla ice cream and
  a pot of sticky-toffee sauce to pour deep into its molten centre.
  
  This is good old-fashioned food, immaculately done, in the sort of pub
  designed for lingering. It's getting late now, and we've an early start.
  But first, another bottle of wine. Dinners like this are too rare
  to be rushed.
  
  About £45 per head. The Punch Bowl Inn, Crosthwaite, Cumbria; the-punchbowl.co.uk
  
  ★★★★✩ 
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